Glacier Mountaineering Society

Sat, Aug 7 2010 - Clements/Cannon (View Original Event Details)

Coordinator(s):		Jim Foster
Participants:		Jim Foster, Rick Murphy, Alan Wiley, Tim Anderson

Write Up:
Our initial attempt was the Monday of Mountaineering Week, 7/19. We were turned back by a thunder and lightening storm at Logan Pass before we achieved the saddle between Oberlin and Clements. Back at the visitor center we assessed the weather situation and realized that waves of weather would be rolling in all day. We pulled the plug on the trip. We reschedule the trip for August 7th and added it to the calendar. It ended up where only two of the original members were able to go, Alan Wiley and Rick Murphy, and one add on, Tim Anderson. The four of us met at Logan Pass at 0830 on 8/7. The day was heavily clouded and a light breeze, perfect climbing weather. We started out on the boot trail to Oberlin encounter only a couple of small snow fields left. On the original date, 7/19, we were in snow almost immediately and would have stayed in snow all the way to the saddle. Lots of warm weather in between. We made the saddle in a little over an hour and discussed the route from there. The ridge from the saddle is climbed mostly on the bird woman pass side with some portions directly on the ridge. About halfway up is a spire that overlooks Logan Pass. Rick, Alan and Jim decided to detour and climb this first. Tim took pictures. On the way up we encountered a particularly onerous snow field (was there in 09 but not in 08 or 07) that required us to climb the rock instead of the normal route. We made the entrance to the goat trail in another hour. Once in the couloir we encountered the crux pitch almost immediately. I always bring a 30m rope for this climb and we used it for two climbers who were uncomfortable with climb. After that is was a relatively simple scramble to the top. We made the summit of Clements at 1220. After a short lunch break and summit photo we began the mile long ridge descent to Bird Woman Pass. Once at the pass we took a short refuel break and headed up Cannon. The clouds had begun to pile up and form into what looked like the beginnings of C. Nimbus clouds which worried me a bit. No rumblings though so felt like we could push on. About midway up Tim had to pull the plug because of some serious cramping in his legs. Alan, Rick and I continued up. We made the summit with ease by 1430. After another lunch break and summit photo we headed down. By this time a very dark cloud was hovering over us but again no rumblings or any sign of precip. Unfortunately the fires in BC made everything hazy so the vistas were mediocre. The climb down and out went without a hitch and were back to the cars by 1730. The climb ended up being 8 hours in duration, burning 5,519 calories and taking 22,812 steps. By the time we were at Logan Pass the clouds had broken up and the weather was great.

Have some photos from this event that you'd like to share in our photo album? Please forward them to Tim Anderson at twamontana@gmail.com. Please note that we prefer to receive the photos in approximately 640x480 or 750x500 pixels - do NOT send original high-res photos. If you have a LOT of photos, please submit up to twenty of your favorites (only) for a day event, or up to forty of your favourites for a multi-day event. Thank you.